Kuna Yala

The archipelago of 400 or so tiny islands scattered along the Caribbean coast of eastern Panama is ruled by the fiercely independent Kuna who won semi-autonomy following an uprising against the Panamanian government in 1925. The colourful tribe inhabits only 40 of the islands, maintaining their traditions within bustling small communities. The pristine uninhabited islands, by contrast, consist of white sand beaches and swaying palms - classic Caribbean coral cays - surrounded by turquoise waters and coral reefs providing good snorkelling.  Although diving in Kuna Yala itself is prohibited, it is possible to dive the outer reefs on the western border of Kuna territory.  The San Blas reef system has been identified as one of the 10 best preserved in the world, with an abundance of marine life including manta rays, moray eels, porpoises and a bewildering assortment of polychromatic reef fish. 

Dolphin Island Lodge

A small, simple Kuna-run island lodge consisting of rustic wooden huts with private bathrooms and balconies overlooking the water, and a small restaurant serving traditional seafood dishes. Activities include snorkelling and visiting other Kuna islands or just relaxing in the many strategically placed hammocks.

Coral Lodge

Situated on the mainland coast just outside Kuna territory and two miles from the outer San Blas reefs, this exclusive eco-lodge has stylish villas set over the water, a long sandy beach fringed by mangroves, and a relaxed, secluded atmosphere.  There are a swimming pool, restaurant serving excellent food and an over-the-water bar.  Snorkelling is available directly off your private sundeck and there is a fully equipped dive operation.

Burbayar Lodge

In the San Blas cordillera near the Nusagandi region of Kuna Yala lies a private rainforest reserve in a world-class birdwatching zone. The rare broad-billed sapayoa, yellow-eared toucanet, several species of antbird and the American swallowtail kite can be seen, as well as many mammals and butterflies. The charming rustic lodge with just a few rooms has extensive trails for wildlife walks: the hike to the waterfall is particularly rewarding (and a swim afterwards very refreshing).  Electricity is limited but paraffin lanterns, Panamanian rum and tales of spirits of the forest more than make up for the simple conditions and facilities.