South Africa ~ Western Cape & The Garden Route

The Mediterranean climate of this region is pleasant throughout the year and is malaria-free.

CAPE TOWN

Cape Town is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and backed by the magnificent Table Mountain. The views from the top are awe-inspiring, taking in the city, the ocean with Robben Island and winelands fringed with distant mountain ranges. The vibrant heart of Cape Town is the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront with its restaurants, cinemas, bars and boutiques (Victoria is the late Queen, and Alfred her 2nd son who inaugurated the project). A harbour cruise may provide sightings of whales, seals, sea birds and perhaps great white sharks. A trip to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was held captive for many years, will be on most visitor’s agenda. There is also an impressive aquarium and one of the largest craft markets in the whole of South Africa. Many museums and historic buildings are situated in the City Bowl.

On the slopes of Table Mountain is the unmissable Kirstenbosch Botanic Garden displaying typical plants of the fynbos vegetation including proteas, restios (Cape reeds) and ericas (heaths). Sunbirds are invariably in evidence as they fly between the proteas, pollinating the flowers as they feed. As a contrast and a reminder of South Africa’s apartheid past, a Township tour can take you safely to townships and squatter camps of the Cape Flats.

Table Mountain is a 1087m flat-topped massif at the northern end of the Cape peninsula dominating Cape Town. The Table Mountain National Park is rich in flora and indigenous mammals including hyrax, baboon and porcupines. Beware baboons they may invade you car! The heights may be reached by the scenic cable car or climbed by the more adventurous. The latter can be hazardous because of sudden changes in weather, visibility and the presence of thieves. A mountain guide and proper equipment is to be recommended.

Cape Town boasts numerous attractive beaches for relaxation and water sports. Popular Camps Bay is a short drive from the city centre, Clifton has four sheltered beaches of differing character, Blouberg strand around 25 km north of Cape Town provides a seemingly endless sandy beach backed by dunes with picturesque vistas off the Bay and Table Mountain. It can often be windy here, making it a great venue for kite-surfers.

The Cape Winelands

Easily accessible from Cape Town, the winery estates around Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Wellington and Constantia offer cellar tours and wine tasting – a relaxing way to enjoy the fruits of the excellent climate and ideal conditions for the cultivation of vines.

Cape Peninsula

Most visitors to the Cape Peninsula make for the Cape of Good Hope section of the National Park with its massive sea cliffs and extensive views. It is famed as being perilous for seafarers and the place where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet at Cape Point (although they ‘officially’ meet a little further south-east at the less accessible Cape Agulhas).

Prior to reaching Cape Point, on the west coast of the peninsula, is the pretty fishing harbour of Hout Bay. From here it is possible to take a short cruise to Duiker Island (Seal Island) for is large seal colony and also have the opportunity to admire the stunning natural setting of the Bay from the sea.

On the eastern side of the peninsula is False Bay where the Indian Ocean waters are several degrees warmer than the Atlantic seaboard making it more popular area for seaside development. Southern right whale watching is rewarding here from August to November. Boulders Beach, at the southern edge of Simon’s Town has a colony of African Penguins which may be viewed at close quarters. It is one of the only two such colonies in mainland Africa.

Hermanus

Driving east from Cape Town for about 1½ hours, one reaches Hermanus, the once quiet fishing village which is now generally considered to be one of the major whale-watching destinations in the world. The season runs from June to November and, from the cliff tops, sightings of southern right whale are virtually guaranteed during the peak season of September/October with humpback and Bryde’s whales seen offshore from boats.

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, Gansbaai & Walker Bay

33km east of Hermanus is the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve with its luxurious lodges, magnificent sea views, ancient milkwood forest and richly varied and unique fynbos vegetation set at the foot of the Duynefontein mountains. The area can be explored on foot, 4x4 or horse-back with expert guides.

This area of fynbos is part of the UNESCO designated Cape Floral Kingdom, an area of ‘outstanding universal significance to humanity’ and one of the richest floral areas in the world with roughly 3% of the world's plant species. 69% of the higher plant species are found nowhere else on earth. Among the best-recognized plant species in this biodiversity hotspot are the proteas – particularly South Africa’s national flower the King protea.

Around 320 species of land bird include fynbos endemics such as the Cape sugarbird, the orange-breasted sunbird, the protea canary and the Cape siskin.

Large mammals have largely disappeared from the area, but the endangered bontebok antelope and Cape grysbok antelope remain, as well as two species of golden mole and the beautiful caracal cat.

Whales can be seen at a distance from Grootbos, or at closer quarters from nearby fishing port of Gansbaai. Boat trips are also possible to see whales and the channel between the mainland and Dyer Island is sometimes so infested with the endangered and formidable great white shark that it is known as Shark Alley. The sharks are attracted by the huge colonies of penguins and seals on the island.

The staff of Grootbos are happy to take guests to the pristine white sand beach of nearby Walker Bay and De Kelders as well as to Klipgat Caves – an important archaeological site where 2000 year-old pieces of pots discarded by the Khoikhoi pastoralists or their San hunter-gatherer antecedents have been discovered together with stone and bone ornaments and remains of the shellfish, fish and other animals they had eaten in their cave shelter. Deeper in the cave, human teeth and beautifully preserved bone food remains have been found, from Stone Age people somewhere between 40-80,000 years ago!

Staff at Grootbos Lodges will also be happy to show guests around their township, offering an insight into modern-day living for many Africans.

De Hoop Nature Reserve

The 34,000ha De Hoop Nature Reserve, east of Hermanus and Cape Agulhas, is a stunning wilderness of towering sand dunes, impressive rock formations and beautiful coastline – may even beat the better known Hermanus for southern right whale sightings in season (June-November, peaking in July-October) as well as dolphins and seals.

De Hoop Nature Reserve forms part of the ‘Cape Floral Kingdom’ with lowland fynbos flora dominant (defined by the presence of four types of plant: proteas - tall shrubs with large leaves; ericas - heath-like shrubs; restios - wiry, reed-like plants; and geophytes - bulbs that store moisture in fleshy underground organs). The reserve contains 86 mammal species including Cape mountain zebra, baboons, bontebok, eland and other antelope. The reserve is home to over 250 resident and migratory bird species. The Potberg Mountains are home to the only remaining breeding colony of endangered Cape vultures and the reserve is also home to the greatest number of endangered blue cranes in the world (South Africa’s national bird). The permanent wetland of De Hoop Vlei attracts over 100 species of water bird including rare black oystercatchers.

The adjacent De Hoop Marine Protected Area extends three nautical miles (5 km) out to sea to protect a rich and diverse marine life. Rewarding snorkelling can be enjoyed in the rock pools near Koppie Alleen.

For those with more time and reasonable fitness, the five-day 55km portered ‘Whale Trail’ hike from the Potberg Mountains to Koppie Alleen is the best way to enjoy this incredible wilderness area. The route is one of South Africa’s best hikes and is invariably over subscribed - booking well in advance is essential.

THE GARDEN ROUTE

The c.200km Garden Route is a world-famous scenic drive through verdant and diverse scenery with various stops of interest. There are ten nature reserves, protecting varied ecosystems and natural features such as lakes, lagoons, tall indigenous forests and Cape fynbos flora, mountains, rivers and sandy beaches as well as marine reserves. Southern right whales make the long swim from Antarctica to breed and calve near this coastline between July and November.

The Garden Route is sandwiched between the Outeniqua and Tsitsikamma Mountains and the Indian Ocean coast. Various towns vie for the title of westernmost point of the Garden Route (i.e. Heidelberg, Stilbaai, Witsand etc) but the easternmost point is generally agreed as Storms River Mouth. The classic journey would be to take the scenic Route 62 from Cape Town, through the lovely winelands region and over the Little Karoo semi-desert to Oudtshoorn, then cross the Outeniqua Mountains via a winding pass to Mossel Bay or George (or simply fly to George) and join the Garden route there, travelling to Port Elizabeth in the East (perhaps also taking in some Big 5 reserves). There is an argument for reversing this and travelling east to west so that the sun isn't in one's face whilst driving in the afternoons. Adrenaline sports such as abseiling, bungee jumping, zip-line and mountain biking….and even ostrich riding…compete with the natural attractions throughout its length making this a popular route for all.

Route 62

Route 62 is an inland mountain route connecting Cape Town and Oudtshoorn and often used as counterpart to the Garden Route. It is more interesting and a little shorter than the N2 highway, travelling through spectacular passes and valleys with interesting small towns on the way.

Klein Karoo (Little Karoo)

The Karoo is a semi-desert region of South Africa, divided into the much larger Great Karoo in the north and Klein Karoo (‘klein’ is Afrikaans for ‘little’) in the south. The Klein Karoo is a fertile valley between Swartberg Mountains to the north and Langeberg and Outeniqua Mountains to the south and Oudtshoorn is the main town of this area.

Oudtshoorn

Various mountain and coastal roads converge at the town of Oudtshoorn in the Klein Karoo and it offers a convenient stop before travelling south to the Garden Route. It is famed for its huge Ostrich farms and the nearby Cango Caves with it's dripstone formations and some of the largest stalagmites in the world. Highlights in the area include the Swartberg Pass, an unpaved hairpin road dissecting the spectacular folded mountains of the Swartberg and offering beautiful elevated views over the Klein and Great Karoo and a chance to see various semi-desert succulents.

From Outshoorn one can travel south to the Garden Route via the N12 to George via the extraordinary Outeniqua Pass or via the Robinson Pass on the R328 (perhaps stopping at the 80 year old Eight Bells Mountain Inn) to Mossel Bay.

Mossel Bay

The coastal town of Mossel Bay is of great historical significance as it was here that the indigenous Khoisan cattle herders first met Europeans in 1488 in the shape of Portuguese mariners under the command of Bartolomeu Dias. Trading began and the bay was used as a halfway stop on the way to India. It was not long before violence ensued, sadly the start of 500 years of racial conflict in South Africa. There is a full-sized replica of Dias’ ship in the Maritime Museum which was built in Portugal and sailed to Mossel bay in 1989. Outside the museum is the 500 year old ‘Post Office Tree’ where 16th century mariners used to leave messages for passing ships in an old boot which was hung in its branches. Mossel Bay is renowned for it’s pleasant year-round climate and good swimming beaches.

Wilderness and Wilderness National Park

Wilderness coastal village, a stone’s throw from the N2 highway, has a long sandy beach backed by dunes and holiday houses. Canoes can be hires to explore the nearby Kaaiman’s River gorge. However, the main attraction is the Wilderness National Park which stretches from the Touw River mouth to the Swartvlei estuary, beyond which it joins with the Goukamma Nature Reserve. As per the village, please don’t expect to feel in the ‘wilderness’ (it’s too close to the N2 and tourist centres for this) but it is a picturesque park with beach frontage and is a fine example of coastal and montane fynbos with wetlands and waterways that attract around 250 species of bird including five species of kingfisher and the brightly coloured Knysna loerie. South Africa’s only species of seahorse, the Knysna seahorse, is found in the Swartvlei estuary. It is the most endangered seahorse in the world with the smallest-known geographic range of any seahorse (only living in the Swartvlei, Knysna and Keurbooms estuaries along the Garden Route of South Africa). The beach at Wilderness has endemic pansy shells (an attractive type of flattened urchin). Activities include self-guided walking trails which take in rivers, dunes, lakes, forest and fynbos which is carpeted by colourful flowers in spring (around September), canoeing and pedal boating.

Knysna and Featherbed Nature Reserve

Knysna, 102km east of Mossel Bay and 25km west of Plettenberg Bay, was a tiny remote settlement in the forest at the beginning of the 19th Century. However, white settlers arrived and soon Knysna had a thriving logging industry. Add some elephant hunting and the future of the forest was looking bleak until effective conservation policies were enforced in the 1880s. The Knysna elephants are the only freely roaming elephants in South Africa. They are mysterious, shy and difficult to monitor in their impenetrable forest home but it is thought that fewer remain than can be counted on one hand.

Knysna town has now grown to around 80,000 residents and is a main stop on the Garden Route. The lack of beach is compensated for by the location on the warm-water Knysna estuary and lagoon with a verdant hilly backdrop and impressive sights such as the Knysna ‘Heads’ – two striking headlands between which the estuary opens a turbulent channel to the ocean. There are plentiful art and craft shops and restaurants. A local speciality is locally cultivated oysters.

As well as the Elephant Sanctuary and adventure activities of tree canopy gliding, kloofing (canyoning) and abseiling, a main excursion of interest is to the 150 hectare Featherbed Nature Reserve, only accessible by ferry. There is a 4-hour guided excursion including the scenic ferry trip across the lagoon, a 4x4 vehicle nature drive to the top of the western ‘Head’ with its lovely views over the estuary and beyond, then a 2.2km walk down to sea level passing through milkwood forests, fynbos, sea cliffs and visiting caves once used by the Khoikhoi. Wildlife in Featherbed Nature Reserve includes the beautiful Knysna lourie, diminutive blue duiker (one of Africa’s smallest antelope), Cape mountain tortoises, African black oystercatchers and South Africa’s national bird the blue crane.

To the north of Knysna, temperate Afro-Montane rainforest covers the hilly terrain until transitioning to fynbos at higher levels in the Outeniqua Mountains. The extensive and dense Knysna Forest, home of the last remaining Knysna elephants, includes ancient indigenous trees such as stinkwood, yellowwood, ironwood, blackwood, Cape chestnut and white alders.

Plettenberg Bay

Plettenberg Bay (known locally as ‘Plett’ and originally named ‘Bahia Formosa’ (beautiful bay) by early Portuguese explorers), is 33 km east of Knysna and enjoys probably the best beaches along the Garden Route and is a very popular resort on the Garden Route. The wide bay of white sand is separated by forest from a backdrop of rugged mountains. It is an excellent centre for all manner of water sports (even the dolphins enjoy the surfing opportunities!) and there are excellent land-based whale-watching sites for the July to October season. Boat trips for close encounters with the whales depart from Central Beach, one of four main beaches in the Bay.

8km south-east of Plett’s town centre is one of the Garden Route’s most enjoyable walks – a 9km circuit of the rocky Robberg Peninsula (there are also shorter trails). The high cliff scenery of the Robberg Nature Reserve is spectacular and seals, dolphins and whales may be spotted along the wild coastline. This provides a complete contrast to the holiday bustle of Plett. Nearby Nelson Bay Cave was found to contain evidence of human habitation dating back more than 120 thousand years.

Attractions in the greater Plettenberg Bay area (known as Bitou) include ‘Birds of Eden’, the largest free-flight bird aviary in the world and the ‘Monkeyland’ primate sanctuary where international species saved from captivity roam in relative freedom and can be visited on ‘walking safaris’.

Tsitsikamma National Park, Nature’s Valley and Storm’s River Mouth

The stunningly beautiful Tsitsikamma National Park – the ‘place of abundant water’ in Khoisan - is a not-to-be-missed Garden Route highlight. It incorporates both a terrestrial and marine reserve extending 5.5km out to sea, protecting an 80km coastal belt of rocky foreshore, reef and deeper sea, indigenous hardwood forests, fynbos, deep river gorges, waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, and rivers. Tsitsikamma Forest National Park has two sections: De Vasselot and Nature’s Valley in the west and Storms River in the east. Nature’s Valley has a 3km stretch of sandy beach and quieter walking trails than the main attraction, Storms River Mouth where the river rushes through the gorge to meet the sea and where it is possible to cross via a suspension footbridge.

There are excellent hiking trails of varying lengths from short 1hr trails and day hikes which touch on various aspects of the reserve’s beauty, to the fabulous 2.5 day Dolphin Trail, up to the renowned 42km, 5-day/4 night Otter Trail (must be pre-booked many months in advance) which connects both sides of the Tsitsikamma Forest National Park, leading through forest and secluded valleys, past waterfalls and tidal pools and crossing rivers. The Bloukrans River has to be crossed by wading or swimming, and there are some steep climbs so fitness is essential. The elusive Cape clawless otters may only be detected by their spoor but dolphin, whales, seals, rock dassies (hyrax), blue duikers, Knysna lourie and sunbirds may be seen. If that wasn’t enough to excite you, you can throw yourself off the Bloukrans Bridge – the world’s highest bungee jump at 216m!

The Tsitsikamma Coastal National Park is South Africa’s oldest marine reserve and includes an underwater trail for snorkellers and licensed scuba divers. Dolphins and porpoises can often be seen playing in the Indian Ocean surf.

Cultural heritage sites at the Tsitsikamma National Park include ancient Khoisan caves, shell middens and rock art as well as more recent ruins of fishing settlements.

PORT ELIZABETH

The industrial town of Port Elizabeth (abbreviated locally to ‘PE’) with its sprawling townships tends to be the departure point to a Garden Route itinerary (or entry if travelling westwards) and also a hub from which to access the Eastern Cape game reserves such as Addo Elephant Park, Shamwari and Kwandwe (please see the next tab at the top of this page). There is not much to interest the visitor to overnight except when it is necessary due to flight scheduling – though there are some lovely city beaches, coastal walks and excellent township tours which allow an insight into apartheid history and South Africa’s future.

South Africa ~ Western Cape & The Garden Route

CAPE TOWN

The Cape Winelands

Cape Peninsula

Hermanus

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, Gansbaai & Walker Bay

De Hoop Nature Reserve

THE GARDEN ROUTE

Route 62

Klein Karoo (Little Karoo)

Oudtshoorn

Mossel Bay

Wilderness and Wilderness National Park

Knysna and Featherbed Nature Reserve

Plettenberg Bay

Tsitsikamma National Park, Nature’s Valley and Storm’s River Mouth

PORT ELIZABETH

Classic Cape Town, Winelands, Garden Route & Game Drives

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Whales, Wildflowers & Wildlife

Cape Town, Kalahari, Meerkats & Madikwe

A Superb South Africa Honeymoon in Luxury

Exploring South Africa's Natural Beauty on Foot

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A Deservedly Deluxe Honeymoon to Madagascar & South Africa

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