Northern India

UTTAR PRADESH & RAJASTHAN

These neighbouring northern states are the most popular for visitors. They contain the so-called Golden Triangle, formed by Jaipur, the Pink city, Delhi with its Lutyens-designed colonial centre and ancient monuments, and Agra, gateway to the fantastic Taj Mahal. One may also visit the beautifully preserved Mogul town of Fatehpur Sikri and many other important cultural sites. Rajasthan also contains Ranthambhore, once among the best tiger reserves, now sadly overrun with tourists and no longer reliable for big cat sightings.

Keoladeo Ghana National Park

A compact UNESCO World Heritage Site, Keoladeo is situated south of the town of Bharatpur and is often referred to by that name. A former shooting reserve, it is now an important wildfowl and nature park, harbouring rarities such as the Siberian crane and eagle owl, as well as langur, python and freshwater turtle.

The Bhag

This former home compound of one of the Rajput ruling families of Bharatpur is now a lovely heritage boutique hotel with highly individual rooms and excellent curries.

Siana

Siana is a small hamlet situated in south west Rajasthan, south of Jodhpur and bordering the great Thar desert. The terrain is a unique mixture of granite hills bordered by sand dunes and agricultural lands. This part of Rajasthan offers a rare and fascinating insight into an intact traditional way of life: it is also the best location in India for leopard sightings, and boasts other species such as caracal and blackbuck.

Siana Garden

A few bungalows and rooms within the gardens of the residence of the local “squire” comprise the accommodation, while authentic regional meals are taken with the family. Nearby, the hills contain many leopard, often seen early in the morning on jeep drives. Sir David Attenborough stayed here to capture footage of leopard for the BBC’s Life of Mammals television series – truly a testament to its global importance.

MADHYA PRADESH

At the heart of India, the state contains tribal groups little touched by modernity, many grand palaces, much of India’s remaining natural forest and some very important tiger reserves.

Bandhavgarh National Park

One of the best parks in which to view tiger, it is a reserve of rugged hills and grassland savannah also containing sloth bear, leopard, gaur and wild pigs. There are interesting Hindu cave shrines scattered throughout the park to add cultural interest.

Kanha National Park

A good alternative to Bandhavgarh, the park was one of the first to host tiger research, and was the setting for Kipling’s Jungle Book. It contains much wildlife, including 22 mammal species and 230 bird species: however, tigers are less easily seen here than at Bandhavgarh.