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Galapagos Islands

Galapagos Albatros

With dramatic volcanic landscapes and lying directly on the Equator, the geologically-recent Galapagos Islands rate as one of the most unusual wildlife locations in the world. Above water there are plants and semi-tame animals whose geographical isolation and adaptation to the harsh conditions have led to the evolution of many unique natural histories, including marine iguanas, giant tortoises and the famous Darwin finches. Under water, cool currents have introduced otherwise coldwater species to these tropical seas: penguins, orcas and fur seals happily rub along with parrot fish, turtles and manta rays.

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GALAPAGOS WILDLIFE

Of the 29 species of land birds on the islands, 22 are endemic including 13 species of Darwin’s finches. Nineteen species of seabird include waved albatross, flightless cormorant, Galapagos penguin, two species of frigatebird and three species of booby.   Mammals include the Galapagos sea lion, fur seal and cetaceans such as sperm, humpback and pilot whales, dolphins and orca.  Ray and shark species include the Galapagos shark, scalloped hammerhead and whale shark.

Among the resident reptiles are a large nesting population of the Pacific green turtle, two species of land iguana, marine iguana, seven species Galapagos Turtleof lava lizard, nine species of gecko (of which five are endemic) and three endemic snakes. Noteworthy is the giant tortoise (Geochelone elephantopus), now sadly restricted to a mere handful of sites around the islands and most likely seen at the Charles Darwin Research Centre on Santa Cruz.

 

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

The islands increase in age from west to east, with Fernandina being the youngest and Española the oldest. The western islands contain smouldering volcanoes and huge lava fields, while those in the east have lost most of their volcanic features through erosion.

 


ARRIVAL POINTS

There are two airports in the Galapagos Islands, one on Baltra Island located to the north of Santa Cruz Island, and one on San Cristobal Island. Though Baltra is not an official visitor site, San Cristobal Island does have a few sites of interest. These include the Interpretation Centre in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (the capital of the archipelago), El Junco Lagoon, and Galapaguera where wild giant tortoises can occasionally be seen. To the north of San Cristobal is Leon Dormido, so named because of it’s apparent resemblance to a sleeping lion, and Isla Lobos where blue-footed boobies and sea lions can be seen.


SANTA CRUZ

Galapagos Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz is the most central of the islands and the most populated, with most people living in the town of Puerto Ayora. The Charles Darwin Research Centre can be found here which houses a visitor centre, a giant tortoise raising centre, and is the home of Lonesome George, for years the sole survivor of the Pinta Island subspecies.   There are a number of interesting visitor sites on Santa Cruz Island including Bachas Beach (good for swimming), Black Turtle Cove (young white-tipped reef sharks, spotted eagle rays and golden rays), wild giant tortoises in the interior, and interesting geological formations in the Highlands of the island including pit craters and lava tubes.


 SOUTH PLAZA

Galapagos South PlazaLocated close to the north-east coast of Santa Cruz Island, South Plaza is one of the most visited sites but has a very good variety of wildlife. This includes land iguanas, and one of the most concentrated sea lion colonies on the Galapagos Islands.

 

 

 


SOMBRERO CHINO

Galapagos Sombrero ChinoSombrero Chino lies off the south-east coast of Santiago Island. It is a cinder cone with a steep-sided crown like a Chinese hat, hence the name. There is a short trail through interesting lava formations, and very good snorkelling with possible sightings of Galapagos penguins, manta rays and white-tipped reef sharks.

 


SANTIAGO

Galapagos SantiagoSantiago is one of the central islands and has a number of interesting visitor sites including the Fur Seal grottos and tidal pools at Puerto Egas, and the lava flows at Sullivan Bay. Espumilla Beach is a good location for spotting some of the ten species of finch that can be found on Santiago.

 

 


NORTH SEYMOUR

Galapagos North SeymourWith its location close to Baltra North Seymour is one of the most visited islands in the archipelago. However, it is worth a visit with abundant wildlife including nesting areas of marine iguanas, the largest colony of magnificent frigatebirds and blue-footed boobies. Land iguanas can also occasionally be seen.

 

 


RABIDA

Galapagos RabidaSouth of Santiago Island, Rabida has a distinctive red sand beach made from eroded cinder cliffs. Pelicans can sometimes to be seen nesting in the saltbush which backs the beach, and sea lions and the occasional flamingo in a saltwater lagoon behind the beach. There is a steep, looped trail where some of the island’s 9 species of Darwin’s finches can be seen, and the rocks to the eastern end of the beach are a good location to practise snorkelling.


ISABELA

Galapagos IsabelaIsabela is the largest of the Galapagos Islands, and has five of the biggest volcanoes including Wolf Volcano, the highest at 1,646 metres. Despite the size of the island there are relatively few landing sites because most of the island is covered in lava. The town of Puerto Villamil in the south-east houses a Giant Tortoise Breeding station, and a trail leads from the town up the Sierra Negra Volcano. At the nearby Los Tintoreras channel white-tipped reef sharks can be found in the shallows. There is no landing at Elizabeth Bay, but during a panga ride it is possible to see the biggest red and white mangroves in the Galapagos Islands, young sea lions, and schools of golden eagle rays, spotted eagle rays and baby sharks. Penguins can also be seen in the bay. Punta Moreno is visited by very few ships because of its inaccessibility, but is an interesting visitor site with extensive lava fields and brackish lagoons where flamingos can be seen. Tagus Cove forms an attractive natural harbour, with interesting snorkelling and the chance of spotting penguins and colonies of brown noddy terns during a panga ride along the coastline. There is also a trail which climbs to a cinder cone offering panoramic views of Darwin Volcano and across barren lava fields. At Urvina Bay tortoises (and some of the largest land iguanas in the Galapagos Islands!) can be found along an inland trail, and flightless cormorants along the coast.


FERNANDINA

Galapagos Flightless CormorantFernandina is the westernmost and most volcanically active of the Galapagos Islands, with a landscape of lava largely devoid of vegetation. It is dominated by a large domed cone reaching almost 1,500 metres. At Punta Espinosa you can see flightless cormorants, sea lions, blue-footed boobies and an abundance of marine iguanas.

 


 

GENOVESA

Galapagos GenovesaIt is a long sail to the northern island of Genovesa so few ships make the journey, but it is well worth a visit as you sail into a large sunken crater to anchor. The island is home to the biggest colony of red-footed boobies in the Galapagos Islands which can be seen at the visitor sites of Darwin Bay and Prince Philip’s Steps. Frigate birds and masked boobies can also be seen at both sites, as well as fur seals and short-eared owls.


ESPANOLA

Espanola AlbatrossThis southernmost island has one of the most interesting visitor sites at Punta Suarez. There are numerous sea lions and marine iguanas at the landing point, and a 1.6 mile circular trail passes masked boobies, blue-footed boobies and, from April to December, waved albatross. Espanola is the only place in the Galapagos Islands where waved albatross can be seen, and it is a memorable sight watching their mating displays. The walk also offers views of the islands rugged coastline, and there is a large blowhole around which marine iguanas congregate. Gardner Bay is a dazzling white coral sand beach and one of the longest in the Galapagos Islands. Visitors are free to roam along the beach which is inhabited by sea lions. There is also very good snorkelling around the islets in the bay.


FLOREANA

Galapagos FloreanaFloreana is one of the most southerly islands in the archipelago and was the first island to be inhabited by humans. At Punta Cormorant there is a large, brackish lagoon inhabited by one of the largest flamingo populations in the Galapagos Islands. There is excellent snorkelling at Devil’s Crown, a sunken cinder cone with numerous reef fishes inside, and larger fish outside the crater. Post Office Bay is mainly of historical interest with it’s wooden barrel ‘post office’ where visitors can leave postcards, and collect and send cards left by previous visitors.


SANTA FE

One of the central islands, Santa Fe has just one visitor site in a sheltered bay which is a good location for snorkelling and swimming. The beach is patrolled by male sea-lions which can make for an interesting landing, and vigilance is required when snorkelling! There are two trails, with the most commonly used trail passing through giant prickly pear cactus which are unique to Santa Fe. The land iguanas here are a much lighter colour than those found elsewhere on the Galapagos Islands, and are unique to Santa Fe.


BARTOLOME

Galapagos BartolomeVisitors who climb the 600-metre boardwalk to the summit of the island, through a moon-like landscape of volcanic ash and spatter cones, are rewarded with a beautiful panoramic view - probably the most photographed landscape of the Galapagos Islands! There is an excellent snorkelling spot at the foot of Pinnacle Rock where it is often possible to snorkel with Galapagos penguins!


WOLF and DARWIN

Galapagos DivingThese northernmost islands are only visited by live-aboard dive boats and consistently rank among the world’s top-10 dive sites. In one single dive at the Arch at Darwin Island it is possible to find schooling hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks, large pods of dolphins, thick schools of skipjack and yellow fin tuna, big eye jacks, Mobula rays, and silky sharks. From June to November, whale sharks in numbers of up to 8 different individuals in one single dive are almost guaranteed! Wolf Island is also a good location for schooling hammerhead sharks, large aggregations of Galapagos sharks, and occasionally whale sharks. Dolphins, large schools of tuna, spotted eagle rays, barracudas, sea lions and sea turtles are also common, and hundreds of moray eels, many of them free swimming on the bottom. As the water here is several degrees warmer than the central islands, many representatives of the Indo-Pacific underwater fauna can also be spotted.


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